If you have an MK3 or MK3S, check the Belt Status numbers via LCD menu -> Support -> Belt Status. Check the tension of your beltsĬheck your belt-tension. A loose pulley is usually the main cause of staircase layer shifts.īoth pulleys on both axes also have to be aligned, meaning the motor pulley has to be well centered and the belt has to be moving in a straight line, not traveling from right to left while the pulley is turning. Both grub screws need to be tight, one of them has to be tightened against the flat part of the motor shaft. Make sure the X and Y motor is tightened in the motor mount, that the pulley (orange arrows in the picture below) is secured on the motor shaft and aligned with the pulley on the opposite end, and that the pulley can move freely. In general, Super-lube or any other multi-purpose grease will do as well. Another good lubricant is the Mogul LV 2-EP. According to our testers, the best lubricant is a homogeneous, soft grease with lithium additives, such as the GLEIT-µ HF 400. You can read more about in i3 Printer Regular Maintenance and this guide.Īlso, verify if the smooth rods don't bear any deep scratches and if the bearings are properly lubricated. See the photo below and make sure the cables are arranged accordingly. If the cables hit the frame before the extruder assembly does (if it's an MK3) or before the X end-stop does (if it's an MK2/S or an MK2.5) the printer detects an inaccurate end position. For example, there might be a piece of filament stuck around the belt (usually around the Y-axis pulley) from your previous prints.Īnother instance of obstruction is when the zip ties or another part of the extruder cable bundle are not arranged according to 5. Make sure there are no obstructions in the path of the extruder or heatbed and their bearings. Make sure the extruder and the heatbed can move freely Also, note that in Stealth mode, the Crash detection feature is not available. For bigger or more complex prints, the Normal mode is recommended. The stealth mode is perfect for small and simple objects. You can change Power mode in the LCD Menu -> Settings -> Mode. Run the printer in Normal mode rather than in the Stealth mode. No equipment would be clogged up using this method and it would be fairly inexpensive.Prusa i3-series Check your printer’s power mode The surface of PLA mold could be coated with one of the graphene inks/paints that have been recently been developed (reference links below) to address the issue of the graphite slurry sticking to the PLA mold. This would have to be done for each half of the master graphite mold. The mold could then be either separated physically or burned off and you would have your graphite mold. What if there was a way to utilize 3D printing for creation of graphite molds for direct casting of metals? A negative mold, like those used in sand casting, could be 3D printed in PLA or even wax, the mold could then be filled with a graphite slurry consisting of graphite powder and adhesive. The molds I would like to create have surfaces that are to complex to be machined on a CNC, which leads to 3D printing. I have been exploring the possibility of direct casting of silver and brass into graphite molds for small scale production runs.
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